Best anycubic vat cleaning reddit. I've been using the black AnyCubic 3D resin.

Best anycubic vat cleaning reddit - - - If you are new here, PLEASE see the sticky post - It has a lot of very helpful information to help you get started 3d printing with your Voxelab Aquila. I started using clear resin these days and trying to clean the vat with 30s exposure I realized there were literally circles where the resin was not cured, then I take out vat and plate and run exposure while looking at it, and just realized that my lcd seems to have exactly Engineers apply the knowledge of math & science to design and manufacture maintainable systems used to solve specific problems. It's also MUCH slower with a full vat as you fill up the syringe, then do it a second and maybe third time. For the VAT, a small amount of 99% IPA swirled around, then paper towels to mop it up. I use the first vat for rinsing the prints right off the printer without even removing supports (I want to get all the slippery resin off before removing supports). Looking to do some first test prints so i went to the classic Anycubic cube, also DL'd the ameralabs town, benchy and the elegoo rook. The resin does NOT seem to be curing whatsoever. . Don't scrape it. The FEP on these things isn't great. This leaves a thin layer of cured resin on your VAT, you peel it up and it will take any failed prints with it, along with any debris. Printer: Anycubic Photon mono 4k Resin: anycubic ec0 uv resin gray So i just got my printer and I've only done 2 prints. I tried Anycubic ECO and Siyaya Fast resin. Stepping isn't a huge deal, as I intend to clean things up when the part is done, but I really want sharpness in the print. Price difference was 1 or 2 dollars for 1 vs 2 if you multiplied it. I primarily use a mix of Anycubic Standard (60%) + Anycubic Tough (flexible 40%) on almost all of my prints. During the program the entire bottom of the vat is being shine on with uv light, to allow easy removal of any particles from the bottom of the vat without scraping it. And then all the leveling in the world won't help. I would open the machine and try to clean out under the screen too. And if the vat cleaning isn’t working try doing a longer duration for it. For me up to now, the best result of exposure time normal layers time was between 3. Not an experience I care to repeat, so now after a print when the machine asks if I want to "clean" the resin vat i tell it to "GFYS" and get on with my business. No settings have been changed, no temp change, has been leveled multiple times. I would disassemble the fep/vat assembly, check the lower plate plate frame on a level surface. If you have a burr or sharp edge on the ring or vat that could cause a thin slice in one or more places. I purchased a second vat for the wash and cure ($30 on Amazon). Look for where the fep may have a slice in the place it's secured to the vat. When I replaced my screen recently I noticed some of the spillage I had leaked into the area with the LEDs. If you want to use your own FEP, which is cheaper and easier to get, you need to buy a vat that fits the M3 but isn't Anycubic's official M3 vat. Oh, also installed LCD protector film, mach5ive brand, and added . Thoroughly cleaning the build plate with IPA, even letting it soak overnight, and lightly sanding it for better adhesion. Relevel your build plate (assuming it's not damaged). Trying different types of resin to eliminate the possibility of resin quality issues, two different types, both AnyCubic. After support removal I use the second vat for a second rinse. Does that hole actually go to the insides of the printer or is it isolated? If the former I will need to clean it and hope yhe resin did not fall inside too much. For cleaning to change out resin types, i drain and wipe the FEP with a silicone spatula, that gets about 99% of the resin out, i'll then use a small amount of acetone to cover the FEP 2-3mm is enough, cover the VAT with plastic wrap/clingfilm and let it sit for a while to disolve the resin that gets under the FEP along the inside of the VAT Since the anycubic owners manual didn't have it I hope to get some help from the community. The spare buckets with agitator for Anycubic Wash&Cure Original ($22), Wash&Cure 2 ($30) or the big Wash&Cure Plus model ($70) can be purchased from the Anycubic web page, or occasionally also on eBay with discount prices. *No sanding was done on build plate. Anyway, you should only take the resin out of the vat if there is a failed print on the fep or cured resin floating around, print yourself a vat lid from thingiverse (do the one with the knob on the center, trust me) and when your done printing put the lid on and leave the vat with the resin on it for next time. But the past couple times there have lots of resin on the screen and underside of the vat, kind of pain to clean up. This is a really useful method, but a few notes, possible improvements, and warnings: I would use longer than a 10s exposure time - a longer exposure time helps the supports adhere to the cured film, making it easier to pull up by the supports alone. I do clean the vat and filter the resin upon a failed print, as even tiny bits of hardened resin will deform the FEP and ruin the next print if it's left in. There wasn't, it was clean, and there were no chunks floating in the vat. Been there, done that. Did a deep clean with 91% IPA on my FEP sheet and my build plate, to make sure there was nothing left over on either. Now nothing works, and I can't get it to print at all, not even resin cleaning. Maybe not the best syringe but you can't really hold the syringe, draw it back and hold and tilt the vat at the same time. You use a screened funnel filter and pour the used resin from the vat into the bottle through the screen filter. now just finish of the process by spraying down the model with a spray bottle with fully clean solution, just enough to get rid of any floating particles(one of From watching other people doing post-processing, it seems that cleaning is essentially a) cleaning then curing the print, and b) cleaning the vat. I was annoyed so I order a pack of two vats to replace (overkill, should have figured out how to replace the FEP). 6s. As for your problem, it sounds like your levelling or Z=0 is off. This is the best place for practically everything airbrush related. When cleaning out your Resin Cleaning Station do not to spill your resin infused IPA all over your groin area, especially while wearing thin shorts. It does come with a silicone cover. You probably won't need to replace it. Let it dry. Squirt some PTFE on the new FEP and smear it around with a fluffy microfiber cloth. Or you can just nudge the stuck resin off the FEP from the underside. Proceed to shake off the dirty cleaning solution and move the print to second bucket with cleaner solution, shake and rinse again for another couple seconds. I’m exhausted from cleaning the vat every time with failed prints. I ran vat cleaning a number of times and still the resin would not cure at all. Should have had a screen protector - lesson learned. To add to ranhalt's comment, pour all the resin out of vat back into bottle using provided filters, then clean the remaining resin out with a cloth paper towel. Anycubic Photon M3 Max about 2 weeks old. Get a soft vinyl spatula for vat cleaning, don't use the stiff spatula on the vat film as it will bruise the film. General suggestions I've seen have been to clean a 3D printer's bed with alcohol semi-frequently. I've been using the black AnyCubic 3D resin. The Anycubic mono X it's called 'expose'. What’s a good replacement vat to use for a mono 2 and also a safer way to remove the vat film when doing a vat cleaning? Pour a bit of IPA from the cleaning bin into the vat and gently slosh it around for about a minute and then dump back into cleaning bin. It only does this now. 0. I keep the alcohol in the vats with the lids on. Don't put the bare washing bucket to direct sunlight, as the bucket will fill up with hardened sponge-like resin "cheese" mixed with alcohol. Then, on the machine, select cure and set a time. I took the STL of a photon Zero vat cleaner (literally just a big flat plate) and stretched it out manually beyond the limits of the plate on photon workshop to make sure it fills as much as possible when I leave it in to take out and clean. There is no issue. Got mine working! I did a full clean of the whole printer this week. I recently bought the Anycubic Photon Mono X, but after every print I keep finding resin pieces stuck to the bottom of my vat. Due to the larger build volume, the routine of extracting/ cleaning parts is a challenge. I was going to do that next if this fails, but I didn't need to. No residue on the film. I get that. Feel free to ASK questions, POST cool prints, DISCUSS hardware designs, and SHARE anything you think is relevant to resin-based printing. I'm brand new and was gifted like 5kg of water washable resin in clear, grey, and black. In this guideline, we'll learn about the proper and efficient methods for cleaning the resin vat and the FEP film in a resin 3D printer. All parts now building clean. I wiped it all with some 70% IPA (It all = vatoutisde, vat plastic (top and bottom), the screen, the build plate). Please help. Why is this? People telling me to clean it up, I did, but I find the same thing happening again after one print. I’ve watched the videos and guides online and I’ve followed them successfully, but one thing they don’t mention is the buildup of resin on the washing rack and impeller I had this issue over the weekend. I'm just getting started with my first resin printer, a Mono 4K that was a Christmas gift. You can do a "vat clean" as suggested by some here which essentially is exposing the bottom layer of resin into a solid piece so that you can peel it off easily, and leaving no resin stuck on your FEP. I bought an Anycubic Photon M5S Pro not too long ago. I have been know you not clean it for a couple of days, but I’ve restarted everyday as it helps with the adhesion (I have a Mercury X wash station, buy the way) With regards to this vat heater, it seems fine, and relatively clean as a method of keeping the vat warm. A few successful prints and then overwhelmingly high amount of failed prints. Anyone had success cleaning the Eco resin with washing-up liquid like the Anycubic web page says? Isn't working for me at all, using a Wash&Cure 2. I reprinted with longer exposure times (went from 45s on bottom 15 layers and 6s on others to 55 and 8). Wondering if I should be cleaning my vat after every print and what others are doing? Personally, as long as the print succeeds, I'll just wipe the build plate with a shop rag, top off the resin, and on to the next print. If the resin color difference is large, we recommend that you disassemble the automatic feeding tube and clean it again before using a new resin. Cure the resin on the screen, rub gently with some ISO90%+ and scrape with a razor blade gently. I remove the vat and drain it trough a filter for a couple of minutes then submerge print bed and vat in ipa for a few minutes. You can even use 70% but it's not as effective and depending on your WnC machine, can cause certain parts to rust. Filled the tank with alcohol and no drips. Then you run your printer tank cleaning feature. They said, "We recommend using a ratio of 3:7". It still prints flawlessly. Legit, 4 months later and I'm still seeing if an alternative vat exists, 50 bucks for five feps is criminal and im down to my last one. Then fill the vat with clean IPA (about 1/4 inch) and let sit over night. When in doubt, replace the FEP. What you want to avoid is crating marks O. Every time I pull the vat it is sticking to the screen protector and these smudges are underneath. My prints would generally be fine, although sometimes the snot would be coming out of them if I ran subsequent prints, and would need extra cleaning. Some folks make drainer jigs to hold the vat in place but I don't bother. You'd need at least three hands to do the last bits. Once the VAT was cleaned well, I sprayed it with a PTFE lubricant, then wiped off the extra once it dried some. I've cleaned the vat manually, the release film is pristine, the vat has been refilled with fresh resin, the lcd panel lights up during exposure tests, I've opened it up and confirmed all wires are securely plugged in. ++ We look forward to seeing you later, and thank you for your understanding. If you ever run a print with a bad zero, you may get a ring of hardened resin around the edge of the vat. Leaking vats, problems replacing FEP, no customer service, missing parts, rapid failures, defective prints, etc. It works better than a full vat cleaning. Today it started only doing this, a mess of layers at different heights attached to the fep. I spend 2x more IPA & tissues now The chitubox website lists mono x2 as supported but you cannot add it from the app and anycubic workshop is a pain in the ass to working with. But, the only two liquids I have in my work area are my basic AnyCubic gray resin and 99% IPA, which I'm almost certain couldn't have gotten into the vat. The resin itself is a little over a year old (anycubic white), with an expiration date of 6/2021. Dec 18, 2024 · use the following search parameters to narrow your results: subreddit:subreddit find submissions in "subreddit" author:username find submissions by "username" site:example. I have an anycubic resin that is not a water washable one I could try, I'll do that next. Then take ISO Prop alcohol and pour on top of stuck resin and let sit for 5-10 mins. This is on the Anycubic Photon and I haven't had any problems doing it this way so far! 32K subscribers in the AnycubicPhoton community. I verified all UV lights turn on. I am trying to clean my photon mono x 6k vat after a failed print. I cleaned the vat with the vat cleaning feature in between because I wanted to be careful about things and from either this vat cleaning or the 80 sec print the FEP got a hole! Come on! It printed great with no issues for about a week. I've tried using a plastic scraper/plastic razor blade combined with 91% IPA, but cannot for the life of me get everything off the anodized aluminum. Yesterday I had a print failure (most likely due to not cleaning the vat fully after starting a print without the vat thumbscrews <. I also bought spare tooth brushes to scrub with. The bottom of your vat. The print screen is also a consumable for example, you will have to replace it after a few thousand print hours by partially disassembling your machine. Then once it's off make sure you wipe it all off with alcohol and paper towels. Best of Reddit; Topics; Content if you had a failed print you need to clean your vat, doesn't have to be super cleaned and disinfected but make sure there are no chunks anywhere so drain in the resin bottle, you probably had layers cured directly on FEP from when the fail occured to when you stopped the print which is what stuck there and caused 2nd print to fail. Have tried multiple different builds with different settings and the resin does NOT cure at all I have tried: Turning it on/off (multiple times) Completely cleaning the resin vat and build plate (with alcohol. 2s and 3. Is this a common issue or did I maybe do something wing somewhere? I did wow it down with alcohol once after cleaning out some resin build up, so I'm wondering if I caused it somehow. I had a couple of these and that's how I clean it. It may be beneficial to try different machine screws and find which works. Then pour the alcohol back to the bucket. There are set screws under the vat, you need an allen key to take them off and you can put the new FEP film under. You don't have to set the z-home every print but you should level the platform. I have been printing and cleaning my prints in my new Anycubic Wash and Cure + since late December. I saw a video of a guy making his own reusable vat with a drill somewhere. But that’s only if I’m not printing anything further for the day. The prints come out still covered in liquid resin. I've tried using electronic cleaning alcohol to remove it with limited success. So Photon S was way more practical for me in lots of ways I don't clean my build plate. Hey all! Just got the Anycubic Vyper and I'm really enjoying it so far. Everything about the Anycubic line of resin printers! Come discuss resin printing or submit your… Welcome to the Airbrush subreddit. 05, normal exposure 15 sec, 4 sec off time, 60 bottom exposure, 4 bottom layers. It'll come off. One thing I've noticed from my initial reading is that the FEP sheet will need replacing within an indefinite amount of time, so I figured it's best to keep spares. Its pinched between two pieces and a lot of screws, I think you need some slack when you go to put it back together and you can use the opportunity to clean the VAT. The Auto levelling has proven to be the worst idea they have ever put out I think Sure leveling a printer was sometimes a bit of a faff initially, but once you got it bang on and good and tight on the bed bolts you pretty much never need to do it again (which was my experience with my Mono and Mono X) With this thing though, I am locked out of doing anything to help and am now at the whim Clean everything, thoroughly. Ran the lot through the photon file validator and found out that both the town and the cube have some islands when printed flat. If i switched i'd do the most thorough clean i could to get any remnants of the old resin out, maybe even take the FEP film out and clean the VAT, since cured resin can sometimes get stuck between the VAT walls and the FEP film. How do I know how much resin a print will take? I use photon workshop, if it matters. The first few layers will adhere to the build plate and then it will print a layer on the bottom of the vat, quite effectively stopping the printing process. Use soft paper towels to clean any remaining liquid resin from the vat. I'll print for like a week straight, filtering the resin daily, and then when I'm done printing my patreons for the month I'll clean the vat by rinsing in the dirty tank, then running in the Wash/Cure station for about 4 min. Vat Cleaning Gcode Discussion Hey guys, wondering if there is a photon file with gcode for doing a vat clean (like the newer machines) Essentially just expose the entire screen with the build plate away from the vat for 30-60 sec to create a single layer of cured resin that can then be removed bringing any debris or junk out of the vat. I just got a spare Anycubic vat for half the cost so there is that. I have pulled the vat and cleaned it spotless with alcohol. But thats not working, it only prints abut 3/4 of the screen, what am I doing wrong here? After I re-placed the vat before doing a vat cleaning, I noticed that the resin was behaving oddly: pooling, streaking, almost running away into the corners like oil does from water. I asked Anycubic support how best to clean my (Chiron) Ultrabase and they told me to just wipe with a cloth dampened with plain water. So ordered one of those (2 pcs in the package). If you are going to clean it at all, soap and water and some lens cloths has been the usual suggestion. I dont have a wash and cure, sorry. For me, I tend to swap colors and I use a lot of transparent resins. 34K subscribers in the AnycubicPhoton community. Then another alcohol wipe, then dry with paper towel. I use alcohol and with your gloves on gently try to Peel it off. Thank you Everything about the Anycubic line of resin printers! Come discuss resin printing or submit your questions here! Hi Reddit, I'm new to photopolymer printing. Hope it helps. After that I used a small uv flashlight to manually cure the resin and it worked, so I ruled out the resin being faulty. This is what happens when the masking capabilities of the screen start to fade and it lets small amounts of UV leak into the vat. Both were the test cube. These things get super fucked up if you use that plastic scraper you have to get a silicone spatula to scrape the bottom but All in all the scratches don't mess up the prints unless there's a hole you're good, i use the cotton makeup pads and iso to clean it 1 dry 1 to clean up the resin and spray the bottom and to with iso and clean the botton Anycubic mono 2, has been great for months. The only time I fully wipe-down-with-IPA clean it is if I need to level the printer. 2nd worked fine. Btw you don't need to do a vat clean every time. I drained the vat and put a thin layer in and ran an exposure test. This Pro-Tip is brought to you by the team of Fat Fingered Freddie and Murphy, the same team who brought fun activities such a Play Stupid Games - Win Stupid Prizes! Howdy, After looking at some topics around here, it seems people don't clean the vat in between uses. Printer pretty clean. But I’m a very firm believer of, “look after your tools and your tools will look after you” If you apply this to your printer (because let’s face it, it’s an amazing tool) and always make sure it’s clean, serviced and in good working order, it will last you longer, and work well as long as it can. Time = money. However recent prints are getting stuck on the extruder which then drags them around. Vat wasn't overfilled and no obvious leaks in the fep even when filled with waterm After cleaning everything, replacing the FEP, lubing the rod, still doing the same thing. Re: cleaning: I stuck my vat in my cleaning tub and turn it on for a couple Of minutes each side. I'm not sure if my print settings matter, since nothing's forming on the vat either, but layers are . If there are a lot of stuck pieces, "vat clean" is obviously the easier There very likely is a leveling problem, but if the VAT clean function fails to produce a cured resin sheet at the bottom there is something different wrong, most likely the LCD. Using water washable Resins will also make it easier to clean out. AskEngineers is a forum for questions about the technologies, standards, and processes used to design & build these systems, as well as for questions about the engineering profession and its many disciplines. The build time became a little longer, but I'm getting really clean build now. and half the time, you can just slide your vat out while you work and slide it back in. I currently use a grow tent and a 1600w foot heater all connected to a temp controlled thermistor that switches off the power when it reaches X degrees, which isn't cheap on electricity so I MIGHT give this a go. Resin printing is full of stuff like this, cleaning things and replacing parts will be a thing you have to do. It doesn't even create a sheet when I run vat cleaning. It has three options for exposure settings with respect to the amount of screen area exposed during the 20s exposure. Do the ANYCUBIC Photon M3 or ANYCUBIC Photon Mono 3D printers have a cleaning process that "gathers" all the bits left in the vat, much like the HALOT - ONE PRO printer Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. The Anycubic support person in Discord suggested the following When replacing other color resins, there will only be a little resin residue, which will not affect normal printing. I used to do 30s but when that didn’t work out too well I switched to 40s and that’s what I use currently Reply reply Most printers have a vat clean option, that flashes the screen for 15 seconds so any bits of semi cured resin sitting on the fep get captured. OK so after a couple prints I always need to razor-blade my screen because of residue. Resin vat cleaning? [ANYCUBIC MONO 4k] Old Vat got messed up, got new one, same brand etc…Prints keep sticking to FEP. I had 2 or 3 good prints before it started leaking resin under the vat leading to a fun time trying to get hardened resin off the LCD protector. The FEP will find any imperfections and make you think you have more junk to clean off the FEP, damaging it. I have one for my Mono 2k. But I only clean the vat when I'm done using it for a couple of days. I dug my Photon out of storage and began the process of replacing the FEP and cleaning the vat. When scraping anything off the FEP, make sure the surface under the VAT is perfectly clean. I do. I poured the remaining resin into a bottle and placed the vat under direct sunlight so the leftover resin drops would polymerize, which I think was a mistake. I put the vat on to clean and the resin did not cure. Also, even if you use 99% IPA, if you consistently expose it to air, it will absorb moisture from the air and the concentration will drop over time. I have an Anycubic Photon Mono resin printer, and the bottom FEP film in the resin vat got punctured somehow, and the resin that leaked out cured to the bottom LCD. The downside is that the black paint rubs off with IPA cleaning. If it needs more than that, they explained that it's OK to use a low-concentration of 99% pure alcohol and distilled water. I've tried reaching out to anycubic support repeatedly, to no response. 5/6 minutes in the cleaning ststion is more then enough. I've seen a few posts/comments that upgrading to a better vat is a good thing to consider, but there's a note in the assembly instructions that states "Please use the original plastic resin vat and Anycubic Photon Mono black resin vat can be a replacement. You can clean it. After that I use a brush and plastic spatula to remove cured resin. Remove all top-level functional parts from your printer and wash them (without exposing them, since that is a factor) and dry after cleaning with 99% no, you clean your build plate after every print, you clean your vat whenever you empty it for some reason, either to change resins or because you havent printed in like a week, or you needed to do work on the printer. It shows the option, but if nothing failed there is no need. The Mono 2 seems to have proprietary sheets with their supplied vat and they look fairly pricey. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. The vat cleaning built in also now does nothing at all, meaning nothing is created to be cleaned up. Fill the tray with hit water and let it sit for 30 seconds, then gently scrap the hardened resin off. Just wondering if i can wipe the removeable bed with alcohol or not. I tried releveling my build plate. Then wipe with an alcohol wipe to clean the remainder. Anyone know of any good replacements? Just take it really slow and the filter will be fine. Replace the current FEP on the vat. Elegoo and Anycubic's Grey seemed best, but maybe there's something better. The plastic tool is more for cleaning the vat, but if you've damaged it then I wouldn't recommend doing that. Nothing stuck to the build plate period, and nothing was stuck to the FEP. I recently got myself an Anycubic Photon DLP printer and I can't seem to get a good print. Though, I've left resin on the top of the bed between prints. Find some quality plastic cleaner (I need to do this myself) and clean the "glass" the vat rests on. Thing is, when my print is finished, I can still scrape some residue (semi solid resin, small amount but can still feel it when scraping the bottom of the vat) from the plastic of the Vat. Usually it will stay in a puddle on top of your piece stuck to FEP. Recently just got a Photon Mono 2 and also just recently found out you shouldn't scrape the vat with a scraper, even if it's plastic. Clean your vat (the blue metal tank) out fully after every 1 or maybe 2 prints. My larger concern is 2 parts. Just did it there, thin layer then used the vat cleaning option in the machines firmware, nothing cured. Cleaning VAT is much easier now, too. I have the replacement films coming in, but I was wondering if there are any third party vats that I'd be able to just use bulk FEP sheets with instead of having to get the proprietary ones from Anycubic. I am not all that concerned about the fact it would cure any resin on the screen to the screen. I'm also new, my fep is also a bit rough, I've since been told its best to use supports as handel for vat cleaning (I can explain more if needed) but mine still seems to work with a tad less detail (got a print running now will update soon, though my supports were rushed) Also another method is to just use gloves and press from under the fep on to the resin sheet that the fep clean makes Hi I was removing the vat to clean after a print and tipped it over too far and resin fell into one of the holes om the printer where you screw in the vat. I've printed several models, and then I decided to flush my resin vat. Finally got cloudy so I decided it’s time to change out the IPA. Was doing a vat cleaning and accidentally poked a hole in the fep. I scrape off any excess resin before removing prints (if necessary), but otherwise, it just gets screwed back onto the printer, ready for the next print. Thank you for the images, reduce the exposure time I think you will see better results. If it's damaged, replace it. When you clean it the black color comes off but worse I believe I scratched my screen inserting it. I have had my FEP for a few months now, I clean it once in a while, using IPA, use the plastic spatula to lightly go over the surface taking off any small bits adhering to the fep, drain off the the IPA, put a folded paper towel on the table place the reservoir on the towel, take one sheet of paper towel place on tope of the fep, don't rup it on just press lightly down using the plastic I did an adhesion test at both my normal base exposure of 25, and at 80. I've tried Anycubic's Green, Elegoo Grey, Anycubic Grey and now Sain Smart Rapid Black and Rapid Grey. Then wipe with a fresh paper towel to dry off. Best method after a failure is to dump the resin or strain it back into the bottle. after each print, use an old credit card "on-a-stick" to gently scrape the FEP, and a fine plastic sieve to strain out any solids--a practice I shall continue You seem to have wash and cure station. I verified that it's not warped in anyway with some calibers. If one were to design the *most* efficient way of working on the photon, would it be reasonable to: Start the vat draining resin out through the filter. Please just keep all posts clean so that even children can use this site with their Aquila 3d printers. Hello, I recently replaced both the screen and vat for my Anycubic Mono 2. Everything about the Anycubic line of resin printers! Come discuss resin printing or submit your… I tried the syringe for a while and got sick of it. It's clean and flat A couple of days ago a print failed about halfway through, I assumed that the supports had come free and dropped the print into the vat, however on filtering the resin there was no sign of debris. Heya! Having issues with my printer. Check that you haven’t poked a hole in your FEP, I did trying to scrape up the cured resin after running vat cleaning after a failed print, resin will leak between the fep and screen, cure and muddy up the prints. I rarely have a successful clean. com 3 days ago · Anycubic resin cleaning guide: recommended times, top solvents, and essential tips for flawless 3D prints—residue-free and professional. Look for wows, bends and twists. I only ever use the same resin, which is Elegoo 3D Grey Resin the one you are planning to switch too. All this second week, while it is still printing well, there seems to be resin leaking from the vat underneath. No matter what I do I can’t get anything not to stick to the vat in those spots. edit : hit pause, and put more resin in quickly, then let it go back down. Advice on Anycubic vat leaking on current models? I would like to buy a resin printer, and Anycubic has interesting models but there seems to be a solid 9% Amazon 1 star reviews. The vat is clean, and the projector seems to be working. Thoroughly clean every surface of the ring and vat ensuring no residue is present; any residual resin could cure and misalign the FEP or break way into debris during printing, damaging the screen. Usually I find I can get a free print cycles out, then I need to empty and clean the vat or enough material has settled on the bottom that it sometimes affects the prints. In these, pictures, does the screen look clean, and appropriately lit up? What's the best way to refill the vat mid-print? last time I tried, the print failed. Do you have a problem with vat cleaning? Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. If the FEP leaks it will likely permanently damage your LCD. If you find any residual solidified material or noticeable printing issues after the model is printed, you could remove the build platform and use the Vat Cleaning function of the printer to clean it. 1st failed ( My fault did not put enough resin in). should be mostly clean now. Clearly it’s a small amount of resin. About the only time I saw swirls like this is when resin sits in the vat for a long time, but I always stir and UV vat clean before each print, so it's not so discolored any more If you email AnyCubic themselves, they will send you a link to purchase their hex screws. Gently blot and wipe out the water with cotton balls. < late night dumb learning the hard way to reset everything if one thing is wrong). tilt vat into funnel, or up onto your drip tray ( to drip into funnel ) Give it 5-10 minutes to drip clean I tend to place a sheet of paper towel on top of my container of isopropyl alcohol, and then place the now empty vat on top. There are ways to deal with that which will not damage the screen. Using a flashlight might help. So basically what you do is Pour a small amount of resin to cover the whole surface of the vat. I kept looking for solutions online and came to the conclusion that the UV Lamp is not working anymore after I tried a vat cleaning for 60s and no resin was cured. My suggestions - print using 'skate' bases and use a metal scraper to lever them off the build plate once done (see Step 2 here for an example). Yeah, I get separation more with Sirayatech Fast Grey than I do the other resins I have from Anycubic. I found some NFEP on Amazon that is big enough for the M5s vat (there's not a lot of them). When I have print failures I run the vat cleaning or exposure test, I take the whole reservoir off, filter out the resin for small parts that may have broken off during print, push on the plastic on the bottom to peel off the cured resin and scrape any stuck liquid resin into my filter with the silicon scraper, wipe down both sides with a I am contemplating the advice to do a vat cleaning cure cycle with the vat still attached. I keep resin in my vat, and I've taken to storing my vat on a small tray when not printing, Just minimizes exposure to such. Now I believe 20-30 builds with 1 sheet. As far as new FEP, the Mono 2 is different. Airbrush is a friendly place that welcomes fellow atomization artists from all over to come together and enjoy this highly versatile painting medium. I always clean the build plate surface though. Subreddit dedicated to creating a community around users of SLA and other resin-based 3D printing systems. Will prob get another soon since I didn’t think about it I’m working and need an easy go on another. This subreddit has gone dark as part of a mass protest against Reddit's recent API changes, which break third-party apps and moderation tools. Sticking to plastic vats for now. Is the AnyCubic Photon Resin Vat compatible with the AnyCubic Photon Mono? Troubleshooting I just got my Mono and I've done like 10-12 prints already, but since I was learning I've already scuffed up the FEP pretty bad so I wanted to replace it. On the other side of the scale, my friend keeps his printer in the garage and needs to clean it out after every print because some sunlight leaks through. Hi. I recently got an Anycubic Photon Mono 4k. Thanks for your help btw 😁 Try the Soval vat. Rinse out with tap water. This is my first use of a DLP printer and I'm stumped. the off the shelf replacement I found were m6 x 40mm philips head screws. So I ordered one. Next is a rinse with fresh ipa followed by drying with a paper towel (repeat the rinse if necessary). Clean as much of the liquid resin out of the vat with IPA. But it was like $25 per set. Much easier to work with going forward. I just paid about $20 (22 Euros, the 24% VAT included) for a spare bucket for the Wash&Cure 2 model. If you have left over supports stick that into the resin in one the corners flat end in vat (it’ll help you lift out the cured sheet later). They're all brittle, but the battery holder, toothpaste squeezer, cord storage twist cylinder, and clone minis I printed with the black and clear are all fine. I tried sanding the build plate with 800 grit. I tried retighten the FEP. Not sure why their website (which redirects to the US one) has it for $55USD. ++ The sub will remain private for at least 48hr from 0000UTC on 12th June 2023. Hey guys, I have my M5s since October last year and from one month it has been 100% fail in some places in the plate. The dried resin should come loose. I'm writing this fairly frustrated. Then I did it again with some soapy water, then dried everything off, and let it sit for a few days to make sure there was no residual IPA/soap/etc Yeah I ordered a vat from them based on another comment as it seems like the best option. So I just discovered that through an ebay seller listed as "anycubic_australia" I can get a vat for $50AUD. For cleaning, put it in the metal cage and then the alcohol bucket you get and put it in the station. When there is resin in the vat and I lower the build plate by smaller increments, it doesn't make that awful noise. You can carefully pour the "clear" alcohol out to a container, and clean the bucket with a rag with alcohol. I’m no expert, I’ve only just got an Anycubic Photon, and am still learning myself. I'm pretty new to SLA printing, I have a Anycubic Photon M3+. FYI - I bought the Sovol vat for my Mono but had a couple of issues with it. 2sec exposure time, works fine. I used Alcohol once and now my FEP is kinda clouding. -cleaning the vat and plate with alcohol before use -cleaning the light screen under the vat -re-zeroed the plate several times using the recommended and read methods -most recently, I installed an incubator heater to make sure that the internal temperature of the printer was high enough to allow the resin to work properly I have a anycubic photon mono 2. If you want Anycubic to release vats with seperate gaskets and film, complain to them. So I cleaned the vat, tighten all the top level screws as tight as I felt I could go. Put the part into the ultrasonic cleaner. I'm sure you can guess there should be 15 evenly spaced squares up there. While the Photon S doesn't feature a specific cleaning program it has the detection menu, which allows to turn on the light for testing purposes. But I've seen so many videos and guides advising to completely empty the vat and clean it out after nearly every print or at least after 24 hours of unuse, and it made me start to worry leaving it in there would corrode through the film or cause other issues. necro an old thread but I moved and lost the vat screws for my Mono X and spent like 4 hours back and forth between the hardware store and my basement trying to find the right screw size. Unscrew vat and lift it out, careful not to spill any resin. But if it’s smooth and just has the failed print on it you can use a full bed exposure to clean that off. However, I would probably still clean it after 5 prints or so to make sure there isn't any unusual build up. Apr 18, 2023 · Resin vats can become dirty over time due to resin residue buildup, and FEP film can get cloudy or even break with extended use. Repeat if necessary. Expose causes the LCD to expose the entire vat for 10s or so. It has never not had resin in the vat, including a period of 2 months where it didn't print anything and the resin just sat in the vat. Due to that I tend to keep my. cak wqbfcxl mlfah hhytyd gsbep zgk sbsfczr afak exuda uuzz